Piedra Parada Chubut.

The amazing stars witnessed our arrival. It was eleven o´clock at night and we had just left behind 25 hs of a long route from which the last 140 miles had been on a stony road. The tiredness and the thin dust were among us like cruel followers. Right there, just in front of us, the famous Piedra Parada was standing all alone, illuminated by the white moonlight, it was kind of looking towards our position as if it wanned to welcome us. A few meters away from there, right in the camping, we were warmly received by Michelle (PTZL Argentina), and Ramiro Calvo, who both were so cool with us. We got lucky since Patagonia was not showing its worst side and the temperature was cool enough to get into the tent and have a rest. On the next day, with some more strength, we started the trekking towards the canyon to get to know the place. After a while and with no time to loose, I climbed a couple of 7b, 7c and 7c+ (all of them on sight) to warm up a little bit so as to be ready to go for the canyon´s big fish.

Fabulosos Cadillacs – 30 meters / 14 bolts 8 A on sight!!! I got to know the route Fabulosos Cadillacs while I was climbing an 8 A + a couple of steps away. I managed to recognize that it was being climbed by Martina Cufar, but fortunatly, i could not see her movements from where i was. I got astonished with the beatiful line that crossed all over the wall, it looked really great to give it a try on sight. As the quickdraws were gonna remain on the bolts, and it was also getting late, i decided to get back there the next morning and give it an early try. The first part of the route consisted on a not very hard flat wall that required carefull movements, the rock was prety loose and rotten. So, taking that into account i took myself up to one third of the route putting the feet on the right positions and resting as much as i could. From there on, it started a 30 ° overhang with a couple of inverted holds that mixed with very small edges that were like spikes on the tips of the fingers. They would certainly remind you that the route was an 8th grade! One bolt after the toher, i got more or less to the middle of the route, i was happy inside cause i still had strength and power to face the crux and get myself up. By that point, the overhang got a bit more intense and i struggled to keep my body up there holding onto some three tip finger edges; one after the other and i managed to take my left hand the highest i could to hold on some inverted pockets. So far, i was right on the middle of the crux and i was strong enough to grab some small slopers where i had to use all i had in my shoulder to keep it up and join the hands on some pockets. From that position i had to put the feet up to be able to get my hands on a couple of slopers that would remain on the route for another 4 mts until i got to a good rest. From up there, it was difficult to believe, but i just had left behind the hardest part of the route and i only had to face the last quarter of it. I went through the last meters among hard movements and a couple of restings till i got to a small roof that was hiding the anchor. By that point, my mind was empty and the only thing i thought was on getting to the anchor and finish on sighting the route. So i got on the roof and from a good hold, i clipped the last quickdraw. It was done! Clean on sight! The adrenaline was all around my body, it is something hard to describe, something that only the climbers know. The satisfaction i felt was huge, i had been able to succesfully on sight the route and i was still strong enough to start thinking on the next pitch that was already challenging me. So far the route was graded 8A, however, along with the second 15 mts pitch that i was about to start, it would change the grade into an 8A+. After a couple of minutes and some chalk on my hands, i was ready to move on. I was going just great until the third bolt, from where i could not find any pocket, or sloper, or edge to hold on. I tried to resist but after a couple of seconds i felt. Once i was hanging from the rope, i was able to see that behind from where i was holding there was a big sloper hole with some edges inside. I gave it another try and i managed to get to the anchor without any fallings. Iwas so exited to give it another complete try, but as it was not a competition, i had to give place to some other climbers that wanned to get on the route. So with no other choice, i moved to a different place and to my joy, i climbed on sight a 7A and a 7b+. My day was getting to the end, but it was so cool! An 8A on sight and an 8A+ on the second try! So far, the trip was going just amazing!